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Configure

Packing up — never pull the power

Everything lives on an SD card, and a card that loses power mid-write can corrupt. It rarely dies on the spot — it dies three shows later, in a hall, with no way to recover it.

1
Open the case from this page and press ⏻ Shut down.
2
Wait about 30 seconds. The page will stop responding — that is what you want to see.
3
Now unplug it.
4
To bring it back, just plug the power in and hand power cycle the three hotspots — the case needs nothing pressed; the hotspots do, every time.

Leave it running for the whole show. Shut down at the end, not every night.

Setting up on the show floor

There is one power cable, and one thing you do have to press. Plug it in and the case builds its own network — nothing is configured on site — but the three hotspots each need a manual power cycle.

1
Put the case where it will live and plug in the power. Nothing else, unless the venue gave you a hardline — that goes in port 4.
2
Power cycle all three hotspots by hand. Hold each unit’s button until it genuinely switches OFF, then start it again. Skipping this is the usual reason a connection shows red.
The T-Mobile one lights its screen and shows the T-Mobile logo the moment the case has power — that is not it starting. The screen is only reporting that it can see power; the radio is still off. Hold the button and wait until it actually goes dark before starting it again.
!
Check AT&T afterwards. The Nighthawk loses IP Passthrough on a power cycle and comes back as a router, handing the case a 192.168.x address instead of the carrier's. Everything still works and nothing looks wrong, but the case is then behind a second layer of NAT and nothing can reach in. Open that case from this page — it warns when this happens — and if it has, switch IP Passthrough back on.
3
Wait two minutes. Lights blink and settle. Nothing to watch on the case itself.
4
Check your phone's WiFi list. When the booth's network appears, the case is up — that is the real signal, before any website.
5
Join it, then open that case from this page to check the rest.

Before you walk away, open the case and confirm four things on its Overview tab: every access point you plugged in is online; at least one internet connection has a green dot; every network has a green dot beside its name; and Test now returns a real speed.

A network missing from the WiFi list is usually one of two things, both deliberate: it is Hidden, or it has show hours that have not started yet.

What this page is

Every case at a glance. Colour means online, grey means it is not answering — either it is unplugged or its internet is down.

Configure opens that case's own dashboard, where the networks, limits, devices and diagnostics live.

The ⟳ button re-scans WiFi channels on that case, and ⏻ shuts it down safely.

Each network chip has an eye to show the password, a QR a phone can scan, and a printer icon that opens a sheet for the booth counter.

The things people ask

"What's the WiFi password?" — eye button on the network chip. For a booth, print the sheet and leave it on the counter.

"The internet is slow." — open the case, press Test now. It takes up to two minutes and measures the connection the case is really using.

"My printer won't connect." — it needs its own network with IoT devices (printers) ticked. Printers cannot join a modern WiFi network at all.

"A case shows offline." — it has lost power or lost its internet. The WiFi at the booth may still be working perfectly; this page only knows what can reach it.

Worth knowing before it bites you

  • Hardwired gear is never slowed. Speed limits belong to a WiFi network. A printer on a cable is never affected.
  • A phone's speed test can read lower than the line. If that network has a per-device speed limit, the phone measures the limit. The case's own speed test ignores those and measures the line.
  • Usage counts from the carrier's billing day, not the 1st of the month.
  • Nobody can see your login password, here or anywhere. WiFi passwords are different — those are meant to be handed out.
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